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Nagur is a town of two halves: the old and the new. Like many Indian towns, the new part is teeming with daily life but doesn’t offer too much to the traveller thirsting for cultural adventure. It is the old part, the 12th Century Ahhichatragarh Fort, that gets the heart pumping and sets your mind imagining the extraordinary people and scenes that have gone before you. And to take away any stress, Yonder has selected the perfect Nagaur hotel for you.

It is one of those genuinely fabulous discoveries you never quite expected. The old fort, perhaps more accurately described as a small walled town with a palace at its core, covers an area of approximately 35 acres. The outer sections today are vast fields of grass but when the fort was inhabited were the sites of thriving communities living within the town walls. Fortunately, the palace, complete with its ornate overhanging balconies, elegant colonnades and Mughal courtyards and water gardens has not crumbled, despite being completely abandoned.

Sheer creativity

There is much to be admired about the construction. From the ingenious water system to provide drinking water and power the fountains of the royal court, to the fort’s raw materials, largely red and brown sandstone which gives the whole area a feeling of grandeur.

In fact, Nagur is so impressive that a number of international benefactors have clubbed together to kick start the restoration process. The Helen Hamlyn Trust and Getty Foundation as well as the Mehrangarh Trust run by the Maharaja of Jodhpur have combined forces to bring international conservationists to painstakingly uncover and restore the frescos and other beautiful features of this stunning palace.

The interior of the palace is, arguably, more impressive than the exterior. There are fine frescos on the walls in many of the rooms and intricate stone and wood carvings throughout. The sheer creativity that went into the construction is mind-boggling. The royal bedrooms and living rooms have irrigation systems through which water flows in channels down the walls and through the floor to provide cooling.

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Ranvas at Nagaur

Well off the beaten track, In a corner of a huge fort, a spellbinding cluster of havelis built to house the Maharaja of Jodhpur’s wives. Authentic, elegant rooms around a stunning central quad with pool and arched pavilion dining room where the cuisine is superb.

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